Review: MEATliquor

3 Dec



74 Welbeck Street,



**No reservations**

MEATliquor, centrally located, not far from Oxford Street, is the creation of Yianni Papoutsis (he of #meateasy and Meat Wagon fame) and Scott Collins (Capital Pubs Company) and is a) a purveyor of mighty fine burgers and lip-smacking pies, b) achingly hip and c) very nearly let-down by atrocious service.

The food, to start on a high, is exactly the kind of thing I love.  Unashamed Americana delights: juicy burgers, cheesey chilli fries, fried chicken, sweet pies and strong cocktails are all done with aplomb.  From the skinny, crisp fries drowned in spicy hot chilli topped with gooey cheese and onion and pickles to the ‘Dead Hippy Burger’ – two soft patties, sauce, huge pickles served on sweet, chewy bread – this was frigging amazing. At about £8 each they’re not a bargain but you’re not being mugged either, they’re reassuringly moderately priced.  The pies though, wow, – we tried “Crack Pie”, Key Lime and Coconut Cream – were unreal.  Only £4 a pop they were a slice of sweet heaven.

The cocktails, served in jam jars with names like Memphis Steamer and Louisiana Jam, were pretty special, and strong too. Yum.  The boys drank Meantime Lager and none of the drinks seemed wildly expensive.


The decor of MEATliquor is none-too-subtle.  Loud red and white walls covered in graffiti, almost no lights, low tables, rolls of kithchen roll on every table and awesome blues and rock-n-roll at an ear-splitting volume.  You may or may not like this but for playing amazing bluegrass and filthy blues alone I can’t wait to get back.

The only thing that could stop me is the service. Sweet momma it was poor.  As you can’t book a table queues grow crazy-fast and the staff were pretty obnoxious the whole time.   When you’re seated it’s incredibly tricky catching their eye and settling the bill was also a protracted affair.  With so much demand on the tables they should have been faster than a speeding bullet. They were not.

Overall though, this is a fun and delicious place to grab a beautiful burger.  If they can work on the service and work on being a little less hip and a little more helpful, then there will be next to nothing wrong with this place.  I would say go.  Go early.  Don’t wear clothes you don’t mind dripping burger-juice on and leave room for pie.


2 Responses to “Review: MEATliquor”

  1. Jon December 16, 2011 at 2:01 pm #

    I never made it to the legendary wagon in New Cross, sadly, so once this place opened I was always going to be in there. My best mate from school was visiting from the north for my birthday, and he only wanted to do one thing – go to MeatLiquor. So off we went…

    Totally agree on the food – I also had the Dead Hippy, and was craving the chilli dog sitting on the next table…. almost close enough to attempt a snatch-and-grab.

    Service was a litte erratic – they have clearly concentrated on employing super-cool, super-hot boys and girls who were lovely but a little all over the place. But I will be willing to accept this in exchange for their amazing burgers!

    As a bonus, on the way out my friend pointed to a slightly scruffy tall bloke in the queue, clutching a Tescos carrier… it was hip-hop DJing son of a vicar, Westwood, waiting to worship the burger.

  2. Zoe February 2, 2012 at 11:45 am #

    man! i keep trying to go here and keep falling at the first hurdle – the queue. it’s always around the block and i always end up in another restaurant.

    however, i am now so jealous i am going to have to make a cunning plan where by i go directly after breakfast, with a good book and snacks (just in case breakfast doesn’t last the stretch…).

    by the way, i made your mojito cheesecake the other day. big success with guests and so easy. merci!

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